Pet ferrets require a comfortable clean cage. The cage should be large enough to fit the ferret’s food, drink and toys in as well as sufficient space for movement and exercise.

Some people call ferret cages “kitty condos” due to the fact that the cages are becoming more like houses than traditional pet cages! Ferrets do not need to be constantly kept in cage, however it is recommend that if you are out or can not supervise your ferret that you place him in a cage rather than let him freely roam the house.

As ferrets can be quite destructive and mischievous, most owners prefer to cage it than let it run free when they are out of the house.
You do not have to go overboard when constructing or buying a ferret cage. In fact, just making a ferret proof enclosure with boards or fences is sufficient enough to keep the ferret contained.

When temperatures are excessively hot or cold outside, you should keep your ferret indoors. A simple wooden constructed enclosure is a cheap and easy way to house your ferret when you are not playing with him.

If you prefer to buy a ferret cage, expect to spend anywhere from $80 to $1000 depending on what you want, how big it is and how luxurious it is. Just like cat and dog accessories, there are also gourmet ferret accessories and houses – they just aren’t cheap!

There are a variety of ferret cages available. Anything from a simple ground based cage, right up to the exotic multi level pet mansion.
Multi level cages, whilst more expensive, are actually ideal for the ferret as you can separate his food from his litter area and his sleep area. Ferrets prefer their litter to be located away from their food that’s why a multi level or at least a large one level cage is mandatory.

It goes without saying that some things should be avoided. For example, cages with slats or openings big enough for the ferret to get his head or feet stuck in, coated surfaces (some coats are safe, check before buying), metal bottomed cages and anything else that may seem hazardous to your ferret’s health.

Ferret cages are a fun way to house your ferret when you don’t want him on the loose. Take your time choosing one, and it will last a lifetime.

Ferrets, like many of their cousins in the weasel family, have a natural musky scent. Over time that can build up to an unpleasant level. That happens too often in pet stores and the homes of careless owners who don’t house and clean the cage properly. But some odor can be present even in the best circumstances. Fortunately, dealing with it only takes a little thought and effort.

Many commercially sold ferrets will have their natural scent glands removed. These are similar to the anal glands in skunks, which the ferret can use to spray with when fearful. Though, the emitted spray is different in skunks. Removing them can certainly reduce the potential odor problem, but some see that as unnecessary and extreme. Some odor will remain even then, since it’s excreted through the skin.

A properly maintained cage can help keep the problem to nearly non-existent levels. A bath twice a year, or whenever ‘accidents’ occur, is another means of keeping the animal clean and therefore nearly odor-free. Keep in mind, though, that ferrets may actually smell more after a bath as they emit extra amounts of new oil to replace that lost from bathing.

If they’ve become stressed, causing them to emit scent, a simple cleansing with a cloth can reduce the odor. Unlike skunk spray, ferret scent doesn’t stain and last for weeks.

Be aware that certain odors can be evidence of possible illness. ECE or Green Slime disease is a condition that causes ferrets to produce highly noxious, green feces. The odor is distinctive and obvious. Looking for any abnormality in their waste, as evidenced in part by the odor, is a way of keeping odors down and detecting possible health problems.

Apart from the natural scent glands and ECE, certain bacteria are often at the bottom of odors, just as they are in humans and other mammals. Look for any evidence of intestinal problems and give your ferret a regular checkup at the vet. Regular, means at least annually.

Bedding and soft toys should be cleaned from time to time. Once per week is average for bedding, but may be needed more often if the ferret has eliminated on it. Not common in a properly laid out cage with a litter trained ferret, but hardly unknown either. A dilute bleach can help keep bacteria down that produce odors. Be sure to use a dye and scent-free detergent to eliminate any possible skin problems from contact with the bedding.

For those who are sensitive to the smell ferrets naturally produce, especially during shedding season, there are commercial products available. Ferret Sheen and similar sprays can be used safely daily, though that’s probably overdoing it. Some may be sensitive, however, so monitor your ferret after using and look for any adverse reactions.

Ferrets have very high metabolisms. As a result, unlike dogs, they should have access to food at all times. Their digestive systems work quickly and they will typically process anything they’ve eaten within a few hours. For that, and other aspects, to function properly, they also need lots of water.

Ferrets, though they sleep about 18 hours per day, are typically extremely active for the hours they’re awake. They’re exploratory and love to move things around. That means they’ll tip a bowl over, shove food out or hide it, spill and splash water. Getting gear to minimize those problems, and keep the ferret’s quarters clean, can be a challenge.

Fortunately, as you would expect, there are hundreds of choices on the market today. There are more styles and designs of water dispenser and feeding mechanism available than you could even look at, much less buy.

Some food dispensers are just a simple bowl. While not ideal, if that’s what you prefer, at least make sure it’s sturdy, heavy and non-chewable. A heavy enough bowl can’t be tipped over, even by a jumping ferret. It should be non-breakable and made of material that the ferret can’t break off with his or her teeth. Ferrets love to chew on things!

At the same time, it should be easy to clean, non-toxic and not subject to rust. Wooden bowls, while attractive, can retain moisture providing a place for bacteria to grow. Cedar, for example, emits odors that are bad for the ferret. Plastic, on the other hand, doesn’t have any natural compounds to oppose the growth of bacteria and many metals rust. Marble or other hard stone is ideal, but harder to find.

Automatic feeders, typically plastic, are a good compromise. A J-feeder (so-called because of its shape) allows you to provide several days of food. It dispenses a small amount gradually and can be attached to the side of the cage, making it impossible to tip over. At the same time, the shape helps minimize spreading of food. There are several other designs of auto-feeders, or gravity feeders, as well.

Selecting a water dispenser employs many of the same criteria. Here, though, the spill factor is even more important. Make sure that anything you choose can’t be tipped over. Many ferret owners will use a ball-and-tube style dispenser for this reason. Ferrets learn to push up the ball, dispensing a small amount of water, then the ball drops back down to close the tube.

Some dispensers have small sections for carbon filtration, or dispensing liquid vitamin supplements and other things.

Outside the cage, a heavy, low crock bowl is a common choice. They work well, but getting one with a rubber bottom will help keep your floor from getting scratched. It’s important, though, to keep the ferret from chewing on the bottom, which requires a very hard form of rubber that may defeat the purpose.

Whichever style of food or water dispenser you select, be sure to keep it clean. At least once per week, preferably more often, it should be completely emptied and scrubbed out with a dish detergent. Rinse thoroughly. For glass or porcelain dispensers use a mild chlorine bleach from time to time, then rinse very well.

Ferrets require more care than cats or dogs. Though they sleep about 18 hours per day, when they’re awake they’re very active. They’re also extremely curious and love to explore. Unless they’re always caged, that makes them somewhat accident prone. If they’re always caged, they may not get the proper stimulus and exercise, representing the other side of the dilemma.

Beyond basic safety, though, there are regular actions that any caring ferret owner will want to take to ensure their companion is kept in optimal mental and physical health. Ferrets live on average between 6-8 years and much of those they will need attention and checkups.

The most basic care starts with a vet visit for a general checkup and vaccinations. Rabies and canine distemper are the two most common diseases vaccines prevent, but ask your vet about others that may be a concern in your area. At the same time, the vet will check for lumps (evidence of possible insulinomas and other tumors), dental issues, possible adrenal problems and other ferret-specific conditions.

Ferrets have abilities that can more easily lead them into trouble. They can find their way into spaces that even a small cat wouldn’t consider. Ferret-proofing the house against ingress behind the stove, getting inside the couch, falling off the second floor landing and other areas is essential.

Bathing twice a year is a good idea, both to reduce odors and keep the skin healthy. But beware of removing essential oils. Only use a shampoo designed for ferrets. Regularly look for any skin lesions or sores. Ferrets have sharp claws and, like dogs, can produce hot spots that lead to pain and possible infection.

Ear cleaning should be performed at least once per month. Like dogs, ferrets can easily build up wax that leads to yeast and other problems. A simple ear cleaning solution injected with a plastic syringe, followed by gentle massage for about 20 seconds, will do the trick. The ferret will shake his or her head vigorously and expel the softened wax. Careful follow up with a Q-tip is a good idea.

Regular examination of both ends of your ferret may not be pleasant, but it’s best for your pet.

They often burrow into litter box material that, if not the proper kind (and sometimes even then), can cause nasal blockage. That can lead to upper respiratory problems, irritation of the membranes or other conditions.

Also, make sure they have no swelling of the vulva (evidence of disease) or a prolapsed rectum. The latter can result from inadequate water in the diet or a bacterial infection that results in straining. Treatment with an antibiotic, such as Clavamox or Baytril may be called for.

Regular activity outside the cage helps keep your ferret mentally stimulated and works all those muscles that some cages don’t allow. Take care they don’t get outside off a leash, though, unless the area is enclosed and free of holes. Ferrets naturally seek out burrows and small spaces to explore. But they are much better at getting in than getting out.

They also don’t tolerate high heat or extreme cold well. Above 80°F (26,5°C) or below 45°F (7°C) represents a risk to your ferret. The warmer it is, the more important it becomes to have cool, fresh water available. And, unlike their cousins the minks, their fur isn’t designed for very cold weather. Keep them inside when the temperature dips.

Many people find themselves too busy to devote a lot of attention to their pet ferret. Yet, the ferret enjoys interaction. Apart from non-neutered males, they will generally seek the company of others and want to play and explore. To solve that problem, many will get another ferret. But ferrets, like most mammals, are territorial and may be wary of strangers. What to do?

Before you introduce a newcomer, try to ensure that they carry no diseases they could transmit to the existing ferret(s). They should have at least their initial shots. The closer in age and time you get them, the more likely they are to bond quicker. Dealing with more than one can be a lot of work, but introducing them to the environment no more than a month apart is best.

Fortunately, there are a great many simple techniques that, applied with patience, can usually create one happy family in any scenario.

Ferrets use their sense of smell, in part, to identify who is part of the ‘pack’ and who is not. But newcomers will introduce an unfamiliar scent, of which the established ferret(s) may be cautious. That hurdle can be turned into an advantage.

Take the new ferret and place it in a second cage near the first one. There may be some hissing and clawing, but neither can do any harm this way. After a day or two, switch part of their bedding, mixing the two scents together. Sometimes in a few days, sometimes a little longer, they’ll regard that scent as part of their normal environment.

Then you can introduce the pair face-to-face. Hold one in each arm and let them get close enough to get a good sniff and a look. If you set them down, just as with dogs, it’s helpful to have each on a harness leash, at least at first. A certain amount of rough housing and dominance behavior is normal and harmless. But the leashes are there to make sure it doesn’t get out of hand.

Wearing leather gloves, let them off the leash in a large but enclosed area, devoid of holes to crawl into. Observe their behavior and make sure no one gets too rowdy. Biting is part of their play, but if it goes too far you can have a wounded ferret with scratches or punctures that can get infected. The gloves are to allow you to pick one or both up without getting scratched or bitten yourself in the heat of battle.

Bathing them together can be a challenge, but will help them mix scents again. That will be made much easier if you have another pair of human hands to help. Controlling two ferrets and bathing them simultaneously would tax anyone.

For those ferrets who persist after a couple of weeks, try some bite deterrent spray. Spray a little around the neck. The odor will discourage the more aggressive one.

Persistence, patience and treats will go a long way toward getting your ferrets to form a social group. But usually sooner rather than later, the newcomer will be looked at as someone to play with. Each will be happier, and you will too.